Cocoa Garden Heaven in Esmeraldas, Ecuador

Cocoa Garden Heaven in Esmeraldas, Ecuador

20/11/2014

For some, the sloping beaches in Atacames are heaven amongst the hills and mountains that dominate the Ecuadorian landscape. But for Martin, heaven is the 10 hectares of cocoa garden behind his house.

"Living here feels like being in heaven. Peaceful. I don't smoke or drink (alcohol). I've only been to a party once. And that was with my wife," Martin adds glancing at his wife, smiling.

Martin Bautista Sol never stopped smiling the whole time we were with him last first week of November.

Full of enthusiasm, this young, 36-year-old farmer, in Esmeraldas province in western Ecuador showed us his cocoa garden and produce. Martin and his friend, Don Augustine, spent around three hours taking us round hectares of his land on the west coast of Ecuador.

Situated right on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, Esmeraldas is one of Ecuador's top provinces for tourism. It is home to several centres of tourism, including Atacames, where Martin's cocoa gardens are.

For some, the sloping beaches in Atacames are heaven amongst the hills and mountains that dominate the Ecuadorian landscape. But for Martin, heaven is the 10 hectares of cocoa garden behind his house.

"Living here feels like being in heaven. Peaceful. I don't smoke or drink (alcohol). I've only been to a party once. And that was with my wife," Martin adds glancing at his wife, smiling.

His wife was shy when we met beside their house. Martin's second oldest daughter chatted to us while enjoying a mango from their garden.

That afternoon the sun in Esmeraldas was starting to set. Its dimming rays flickered through the mango, cocoa, and banana trees in Martin's garden. It felt warm and peaceful.

Like most young people in the village, Martin had once migrated to the city. He worked for an insurance company in Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city. But after saving up enough money, he returned to the village of his birth, bought land and started work as a farmer. "While continuing to work for my parents," he added.

Three of Martin's ten hectares are devoted to cocoa. On this land, some of which is hilly, Martin grows cocoa trees, some of which are more than 20 years old. For sustainability, he also plants new cocoa trees on this land.

The rest of the land is given over to other commodities, such as bananas, coffee and mangoes. But, he says, cocoa is the mainstay commodity for Martin and other farmers in Esmeraldas.

Some say that this province produces the finest cocoa in the world, called Fino de Aroma. In the world of coffee, Fino de Aroma, which means it has the finest aroma, is a speciality coffee. But, while speciality coffee grows in several locations, cocoa of this type grows only in Esmeraldas and Manabi, another province south of Esmeraldas, and in parts of Peru.

The cocoa pods in Martin's garden are smaller than those grown, for example, in Sulawesi or Flores, Indonesia. As are the cocoa beans inside them. But the taste is sweeter. Unique.

It is this type of speciality cocoa that flourishes on the lands of Martin and other farmers in Esmeraldas. Every year, from three hectares, Martin produces 6,000 - 8,000 kg of wet cocoa or around 1-2 tons per hectare.

"The harvests are smaller now because of pests," he explained.

This father of two then sells the wet cocoa to the local cocoa farmer association Asociación de Productores de Cacao de Atacames (APROCA), partner of VECO Andino. He receives USD 56 or IDR 700,000 per 100 kg. In total, he gets around IDR 55 million a year.

To improve the quality of his cocoa, Martin has been learning post-harvest techniques from APROCA, the farmer organisation that he is a member of. One of his instructors is Don Augustin.

Augustin explained that one post-harvest technique that he teaches to the cocoa farmers in Esmeraldas is how to process the cocoa beans. In the past, the farmers didn't remove the membrane from the centre of the pod. Now they discard that to bring the beans up to standard.

Like Martin, Augustin sells his cocoa to APROCA. He does this because he can APROCA pays a higher price than other buyers, the cocoa is weighed fairly, and he gets post-harvest management support.

-- Anton Muhajir, Publication Coordinator of VECO Indonesia, Blogger in Bali.